Himalayan Highs in Nepal

Namaste from Kathmandu, Nepal. We have been missing in action for the last few weeks as we have been trekking through the Annapurna region of the Himalayas. We have also had a little downtime in Kathmandu, Pokhara and the Chitwan National Park.

PHOTOS ON FLICKR

If the small selection of photos on this blog doesn't satisfy your appetite, all our India and Nepal photos are now on Flickr. Check out the slide show option on www.flickr.com/photos/rodneykirsty/sets

TREKKING IN ANNAPURNA

Over 15 days we trekked the entire Annapurna Circuit, significant amounts of the adjoining Annapurna Sanctuary and several side tracks. The challenges were many, as were the funny stories.



OUR FITNESS SERVED US WELL - We covered over 300 kms, climbed over 10,000 metres and averaged between 5 and 6 hours trekking a day.

ALTITUDE - The Annapurna Circuit involved crossing the Thorung La Pass. At 5416 metres, it is the highest commercial pass in the world so we were jumping in the deep end. To put this into perspective, Mt Cook is 3754 metres. This was the first time that either of us had been to this level of altitude. Thanks to reasonable acclimatisation, diamox and for Rodney io simulation over the years (thanks Bron) the only issues we had were shortness of breath and the need to stop occasionally to let our heart rates drop. As both of us have never smoked, we can only assume that must be what it is like for a smoker trying to run a marathon. We have plans to go even higher this year, so stay tuned!!!



FIRING AT BOTH ENDS - Nepal's lack of food hygiene is renowned for providing trekkers with gastro issues and we were to be no exception. Kirsty was struck down twice and Rodney once. Surviving a 6 hour trekking day lacking sleep, while going at both ends was quite the mental test. Nevertheless we managed to stick to our planned itinerary while also completing our 100 level papers in gastro medicine thanks to our travel doctor book and medical kit. We particularly liked the term used for the combination of drugs required - "the bomb" and enjoyed remarking to others that we had just bombed our stomachs. While not the official medical term that your local GP would use, the treatment worked.

TREKKING IN THE OFF SEASON - Completing this trek in the off season (winter) meant that we had enhanced views of the snow capped Himalayas, which we had to share with next to no one... except for random Kiwis that kept on showing up. The off season did provide extra challenges though. Snow and ice, whether it be fresh powder or slippery ice, made staying upright difficult and the days longer. Even for hardened Wellingtonians like ourselves(go the Phoenix), the winter temperatures and winds high in the Himalayas were bloody cold. Our water and chocolate bars actually froze solid the day we crossed the Pass. The freezing temperates also meant that hot or warm showers were few and far between (2 in 15 days) thanks to frozen pipes. Similarly, heating was often non - existent. The cold temperatures may have affected Rodney's state of mind, as on one occasion he had the sudden urge to reenact Rory Fallon's World Cup qualifying winning goal on a snow covered soccer pitch at 3500 metres.



FINDING NIM(O)- Due to the increased risks associated with the off season, we decided to complete the trek with a guide. Big ups to our guide Nim (pronounced Neem), who together with our porter Sujun (pronounced Susan)kept us entertained and safe during the trek. It's been at least a decade since we have heard Barbie Girl by Aqua, Celine Dion and ACDC daily, but this music is big in Nepal. Nim also successfully ensured that the garlic soup was consumed in the throws of our gastro difficulties and amused us with his high quantity twice daily intake of Daal Baat (lentils, rice and curried veggies). Nim found it amusing when we learnt to rebut his daily "Bistari Bistari" (slowly slowly) with "Chhito Chhito" (quickly quickly and when Rodney had an attempt at being the porter. Needless to say, we are slowly becoming fluent in Nepalese.



EVEREST - We have thoroughly enjoyed trekking in Nepal and would like to return in a few years to do the Everest Base Camp trek. If you are keen to be a part of the action we are currently taking enrollments.

CHITWAN NATIONAL PARK

We spent 2 days exploring the Chitwan National Park by dug out canoe, foot, old Russian Volga jeep and elephant. We were lucky enough to see several rhinos, a sloth bear, marsh mugger and gharial crocs, spotted deer and many rare birds. The elephant safari provided the best viewing as the other animals ignored the elephants and allowed us to get a very close birds eye view (within 5 metres of a wild rhino is very cool).

Without doubt, our biggest highlight in Chitwan was swimming with the elephants. It was unreal. Our circus act entertained both the locals and other tourists.





NEXT STAGE OF THE WORLD TOUR

We fly to Beijing, China via Singapore on 10 March, where we start our overland trip through China, Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, Malaysia, ending in Singapore.

We hope that all is well wherever you are reading this.

Love Kirsty and Rodney.