Saturday, July 31, 2010

Waving and Smiling in Zambia and Malawi

Written on 17 July 2010 and due to a lack of internet connection posted to the blog on 31 July 2010

Hello! We have had a busy 2 weeks since our last update, as we continue our overland trip through Zambia and Malawi, where we have loved receiving copious amounts of waves and smiles from the locals. Key destinations have included Victoria Falls, camping on the Zambezi River, the Luwawa National Park and Lake Malawi.



SUPER SOAKER: While we are used to cold showers in Africa by now, we weren’t quite prepared for what the Victoria Falls had in stall for us. As we approached the falls, we were in awe of the view and the noise; most surprisingly of all, when we got closer to the falls for a better look, we got soaked. This got worse when, as we walked across the bridge in front of the falls, a burst of water hit us and knocked us sideways. The Huka Falls will never be the same again.



ON THE ZAMBEZI: With the sounds of hippos grunting and the thunder of the Victoria Falls in the background, camping on the Zambezi River is definitely up there in terms of the amazing spots which we have camped at in Africa. While it made for a couple of nervous toilet stops during the night, the sunsets were amazing.



BRIBERY AND CORRUPTION: Africa is famous for officials abusing their power to make a little on the side. Asides from the obvious cash bribes, we have come across interesting demands including the creation of a charge for an unrequired truck permit, as well as for cigarettes, oranges and from a well read border control guard, a novel.



KENYA VS NEW ZEALAND: On the morning we were to cross from Zambia to Malawi, Rodney finally managed to tempt Chef Arthur to join him on an early morning run to the border to meet the rest of the group on the truck. Surprise surprise, Rodney and Arthur’s competitive personalities meant that it turned into a serious 18km race to the border. The Kenyan was early to show his class by easily building up an early 500 metre lead; however the New Zealander’s consistent pace and endurance won out on the day, with a minute margin on the Kenyan. Both runners were all smiles at the end, particularly when they were informed that they had run the 18km at a sub four minute km pace.




REAL AFRICA: One of the main reasons why we opted to travel with Dragoman was their support for local villages. During our stay at Kande Beach on Lake Malawi, we were lucky enough to spend a day hanging out at the local village. Our visit to the school was extra special, particularly as the library was set up and donated by a New Zealand teacher who had volunteered there. This particular New Zealand teacher was also responsible for teaching half the village the haka, which was performed instantaneously upon their discovery that we were Kiwis. We were particularly touched on learning that kids were charged $U50 per term, which means that many kids can’t afford to go to school at all, or alternatively they finish school in their mid twenties once they have saved up enough money. It was also eye opening to be shown around the clinic which helps locals with HIV and Malaria particularly as the HIV rate is 50% in the village. The day finished on a lighter note with a large number of the village coming to the Chief’s football pitch to watch the Dragoman Kiwi/Dutch/English combination beat the locals 3 – 2 in a hard fought game of football. Perhaps Kirsty had the harder job of the day juggling four cameras and a band full of curious kids and adolescent males, who were not quite at the required standard to play against the Dragoman team.



MYSTERY FANCY DRESS: To assist a couple of local boys with their school fees, we paid them to roast a pig on a spit for our evening’s mystery fancy dress party. Our costumes originated by pulling another person’s name out of a hat and entering into serious negotiations at the local second hand clothes market. Needless to say, neither of us would have selected our own outfits if given the choice but the homemade punch helped us wear them with pride.

After two long and hard 12 hour drive days on Helena (the truck), we have driven across the bottom of Tanzania and are now in Dar Es Salaam waiting to go to Zanzibar.

Till next time, take care,
Love Rodney and Kirsty.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

TIA (This Is Africa): Namibia and Botswana

Written on 8 July 2010 and due to a lack of internet connection posted to the blog on 13 July 2010

Hello! Since our last update three weeks ago from Cape Town South Africa, we have travelled through Namibia and Botswana, with major destinations including the Orange River, Fish River Canyon, the Namib Desert, Swakopmund, Spitzkoppe, Etosha National Park, Okavango Delta and Chobe National Park.



HELENA AND TENT NUMBER 9: Africa is not set up for independent travel like Asia or South America, so we are completing the majority of our travel here on board our very own supermodel, a Dragoman overland truck named after the 80s supermodel Helena Christiansen. Helena is a hard working 23 year old Mercedes truck who is difficult to wake up in the mornings and can be a bit grumpy for a while once woken; however with the exception of a broken front suspension, a flat battery and getting stuck on a tight driveway entrance, she has served us well so far. Our accommodation while on board Helena is Tent Number 9, a cosy two person tent which we can now put up and take down at rapid speed, even in the dark. Many of our camping locations are extremely remote and we have been completely self sufficient or have had to make do with very basic amenities; having a hot shower has become a bit of a luxury.



ARTHUR MAN: Helena’s best feature is her chef, a cheeky Kenyan named Arthur. Arthur’s ability to turn nothing into something with the assistance of the on duty cook group (vegetable choppers and dishwashers) has meant that we have eaten a nutritious diet of both African and Western food. We have especially enjoyed his game meat BBQs of kudu, springbok and goat. As a teenager, Arthur made the Kenyan youth running squad and was only prevented from taking running further due to a lack of funding. As a result, Arthur has been extremely impressed with Rodney’s early morning runs, claiming him as a Kenyan and nicknaming him “Kenyan Man”, an honourable title. Arthur has also taken to calling Kirsty “disturbance”, for reasons unknown.



THE BEAUTIFUL GAME: Prior to coming to Africa, we were aware of the love that all Africans have for football. Our travels have reinforced this, with Rodney having many opportunities for impromptu games with football mad kids who don’t necessary understand English but understand how to make it known that they want to play. We have continued to enjoy being in Africa for the Football World Cup, especially celebrating New Zealand’s undefeated performance (well done lads), an achievement worthy of several blows on the vuvuzela (easier said than done). On that note, Kirsty’s childhood flute lessons have proved extremely valuable, while Rodney’s lack of musical ability has hampered his efforts. Please note, if Spain wins the final New Zealand will be the only unbeaten team at the World Cup. We would also like to take this opportunity to brag about our prediction on this blog posted prior to the World Cup that Spain and The Netherlands would play against each other in the final. Come on Spain!



THE BIG FIVE: No trip to Africa is complete without trying to spot the big five and all the other animals that Africa has wandering about. So far we have encountered four out of the big five, having spotted lions, elephants, buffalo's and rhinos; we are still on the lookout for a leopard. We have also seen hippopotamuses, giraffes (very uncoordinated and funny to watch drinking), cheetahs, zebras, warthogs, crocodiles, seals, monkeys as well as many species of antelopes and birds. Some of our most memorable moments have included poling a makoro in the Okavango Delta within metres of hippos, the huge array of wildlife at the night-time water hole at Etosha National Park and having cheetahs lick our arms at the cheetah sanctuary. Rodney was also particularly lucky early one morning while out running, when he was joined for several kilometres by a charismatic giraffe with a slightly better stride length than him.



GODS MUST BE CRAZY: Remember that movie where a Coke bottle falls from the sky and all the locals talk with a click while dressed in loin cloths? Well, we spent a day in that very village. While neither of us donned a loin cloth (to the disappointment of none of you, we are sure), the village kids were very funny, particularly enjoying being spun around, striking gangster poses and playing football.



SAND SAND AND MORE SAND: Swakopmund is Namibia’s answer to Queenstown but with sand instead of snow. As revenge for the photo on our blog posted in Nepal where Kirsty is falling off an elephant, we have included the following, of Rodney’s morning learning to sand board (at the time, Kirsty was on a catamaran cuddling seals and pelicans and eating 3 dozen oysters).



We are now in Livingstone, Zambia. Tomorrow we continue our overland trip north through Zambia and into Malawi and Tanzania. To say the internet is slow in Zambia would be an understatement so unfortunately we are not sure when we will be able to add our photos to Flickr but we will let you know.

Love Rodney and Kirsty.